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Enchanted Wales - Land of Myth and Magic: Itinerary
June 10th to June 20th, 2012
Day One
We will gather in the early evening at a historic country hotel near Cardiff, the capital city of Wales, for introductions and an orientation. Hilary will introduce you to the Mabinogi, the Welsh book of myths and legends that relate to the places you will explore along the way. This evening you will be able to enjoy a fine dinner and relax after your long journey in this heritage house whose long and fascinating history dates back to the 10th Century.
Day Two
Today we drive to the romantic ruins of Tintern Abbey in the beautiful Wye Valley, and then on to a healing well and standing stones in the nearby village of Trellech. Lunch will be in the historic town of Crickhowell in the Brecon Beacon hills. This afternoon we visit the castle of Carreg Cennen dramatically perched on a rock with fantastic views over South Wales. Making our way westwards, we travel through Carmarthen, Merlin’s town, and arrive at the secluded country manor retreat in the beautiful Teifi River valley which will be our home for the next four days. Tonight Hilary will introduce the story of Pwyll, Prince of Dyfed, a legend which still resonates within the local landscape.
Day Three
We begin the day with a walk through the woods to a mysterious waterfall and pool, said to be one of the entrances to Annwn, the Welsh Otherworld, in the legend of Pwyll, Prince of Dyfed. Then on to the village of Nevern, where we will walk on the ancient pilgrim path to the famous church with its ogham stones, legendary bleeding yew trees and one of the finest decorated high crosses in Britain. After lunch in the little town of Newport (Trefdraeth), we visit Castell Henllys, an authentically reconstructed Iron Age village, and experience how the tribal Celts used to live. A local storyteller will entertain us with tales around the fire in the thatched round-house. Tonight we will explore aspects of the goddess, Rhiannon, whose presence can still be felt in this part of Wales.
Day Four
This morning we travel down the coast, following the pilgrimage route to the magnificent Norman cathedral of St David, a site of worship for more than 800 years. After a guided tour of its sacred precincts, we will visit the healing well and chapel of the Celtic holy woman, St. Non, perched on the cliff-tops and commanding a glorious view over St Bride’s Bay. Lunch in town will follow, then time for an individual wander around the shops and art galleries in this attractive little city. If time permits, we will visit a spectacular cromlech overlooking the sea on the return journey. Tonight we will enjoy entertainment by a local harper!
Day Five
We enter into the ritual landscape around Carn Ingli, ‘Angel Mountain,’ starting with a walk through a faery-haunted oakwood which conceals a Celtic hill-fort and Druid’s Cave. Nearby is Pentre Ifan, the most famous cromlech in Wales, overlooking Cardigan Bay, once known locally as the womb of the goddess Ceridwen. Afterwards, we take a winding lane down to the sea for lunch at a pub which was one of Dylan Thomas’s favourites! This afternoon we drive into the Pembrokeshire National Park to view the ancient Neolithic and Bronze Age sites of the Preseli Hills, including the stone circle of Gors Fawr. This evening there will be a special evening presentation with stories and meditation by Mara Freeman.
Day Six
Heading northwards, we make a stop at the little Celtic church by the sea at Mwnt, where pilgrims crossed over to Bardsey Island. Then on through Tre Taliesin, named after the famous Welsh bard, to reach the medieval market town of Machynlleth, where Owain Glyndwr was crowned Prince of Wales in 1404. A stop for lunch in a 16th century hotel at Tal y Llyn, the lake beneath the legendary mountain of Cadair Idris, takes us into Snowdonia National Park, and after a drive through mountain scenery, we will arrive at our retreat centre in its lakeside setting that will be home for the next four nights.
Day Seven
We head north for a day on Anglesey, or Ynys Môn, the Druid isle. This small island offers a panorama of Wales’ history laid out on the landscape, from Neolithic burial chambers and Bronze Age cromlechs, standing stones and Iron Age villages. We will visit the chambered mounds of Bryn Celli Ddu and Barclodiad y Gawres, and the historic town of Beaumaris. In the afternoon we’ll explore the Celtic settlement of Din Lligwy, and spend time at Penmon Priory, with its decorated Celtic crosses, sheela-na-gig, and beautiful holy well, famed for its healing waters. Tonight you will be introduced to the legends of this landscape and its magical inhabitants, including Math, son of Mathonwy, and the wizard, Gwydion.
Day Eight
We approach the stronghold of Dinas Emrys, the hill that is the scene of one of the most famous Merlin legends. Here we meet up with storyteller Eric Maddern who will guide us up the hill and tell the story of Merlin’s prophesy at this place. Afterwards, we will enjoy a well-deserved lunch in the picturesque village of Beddgelert before heading out to explore more gems of this legendary landscape, including the holed stone which played a central role in the story of the Flower Maiden, Blodeuwedd. Lastly we take a drive along the coast to the spectacular ruins of Harlech Castle, associated with the myth of Brân and Branwen.
Day Nine
Today we embark upon a mythological odyssey down the Lleyn Peninsula, stopping at Dinas Dinlle (the ‘fortress of the god Lleu’) which overlooks Caer Arianrhod, named for the goddess of the Silver Wheel. Circling Garn Fadryn, the ‘Hill of Modron’, the Welsh Mother Goddess, we will visit the valley of Nantgwrtheyrn, the lovely old church at Pystyll, and at the very tip of the peninsula, visit a special healing well with views over Bardsey, the legendary ‘island of 20,000 saints,’ and last dwelling-place of Merlin himself. On the way back, we make a stop at the fine art gallery and tea room at Llanbedrog, and visit the atmospheric holy well of St Cybi. This evening Hilary will lead you on an inner journey to explore the archetype of the goddess, Arianrhod.
Day Ten
This morning we take a walk through the Fairy Glen, an atmospheric wooded river gorge where Merlin was said to have lived in a cave. Then eastwards to the town of Llangollen which is overlooked by the hill of Dinas Bran, the legendary Castle Corbenic of the Grail legends. This afternoon we drive to the stone circle of Mitchell’s Fold, high up in the border hills, for a closing ceremony. Circling round towards the south once again, our pilgrimage draws to a close at historic Caer Beris Manor in the heart of the Welsh hills, where we celebrate our journey with a special farewell dinner.
Day Eleven
Goodbye to Wales as we return to Cardiff Airport or train station for the journey home.